Extreme weather is threatening these beautiful 14th-century Tibetan Buddhist temples, but local Tibetans are rising to the challenge and working to protect them.

Tashi Kunga (transliteration) stands in front of the Kag Chode temple, which is built deep in the mountains of Dhaulagiri, near the border between Nepal and Tibet. The crimson cassocks of Tibetan monks shimmered in the rain as they recounted ancient legends about Padmasambhava’s battles with demons.

Legend has it that centuries ago, a demon wreaked havoc on a temple in Tibet. Guru Padmasambhava chased the demon south to Upper Mustangi in Nepal and defeated the demon after a fierce battle, burying the remains of the demon’s body throughout the mountains. The people of Mustang commemorate this sacred land by building temples on the body parts of demons.

“Right at the heart of that demon, the capital of Lo Manthang was established in 1380,” Tashi Gonggar said, pointing to the narrow lanes, ancient temples and flat roofs decorated with prayer flags.

The city is the remains of the last medieval city in the world.

For centuries, the Lobas, the indigenous people who live in this remote area on the Tibetan Plateau, have been reproducing their descendants. The most precious heritage of the area are these temples, known locally as “Gonpas”. But in the past 20 years, the temples, which date back to the 14th century, began to collapse.

Many experts have warned that these collapses are due to the severe effects of climate change. Data shows a significant increase in the intensity of storms and rainfall in the region. Increased rainfall makes compacted earth buildings susceptible to moisture as moisture in the soil seeps upward into the walls, causing problems such as roof leaks and rising moisture.

“For us Buddhists, the paintings and artifacts in temples are themselves the embodiment of the gods, and we cannot worship a half-destroyed idol,” Gongga told reporters.

“No one is restoring it. Our heritage is disappearing. We think the gods are angry about it,” he added.

Restoration of Buddhist temples

Buddhist temples have long been revered as the cornerstone of Tibetan culture. They are not only important hubs for the creation and protection of tangible cultural relics, but also key places for preserving deep wisdom traditions.

However, unprecedented weather patterns pose a threat to its cultural heritage, and now local community members are embarking on the road to restoration. Tibetans learn a variety of skills, including strengthening walls, making metal statues, and restoring paintings.

Over the past 20 years, a team of local Lhoba people trained by Western art conservation experts have used logs, river rocks and local clay to waterproof the temple, replacing the old leaky roof and simultaneously repairing it. Frescoes, statues, carved columns and ceiling decorations give these centuries-old buildings a new lease of life.

Luigi Fiegni, Lomanthang’s chief art restorer, is leading the restoration project. He told the BBC that transforming a farming community into experts in heritage restoration was challenging. Most of the Lhoba people had never held a pen or paintbrush before, so they received extensive training before beginning the restoration of the 15th-century mural.

“But everything worked out in the end,” Figni explained. “Tourists who come to Mustang are very interested in religion, and we felt that these sacred artifacts needed to be protected, not only because of their historical significance, but also to sustain the livelihoods of local residents.” .

What started as a team of 10 members has grown to 45 restorers, the majority of whom are women. Although local residents were initially reluctant to accept women into the team, they were later accepted.

According to local tradition, women are prohibited from touching sacred objects. However, through hard work, local women eventually became involved in the restoration project.

“We spent many years discussing and negotiating with local religious personnel and communities. Ultimately, we succeeded in integrating local women into the mural conservation team.” This achievement required overcoming the barriers of cultural traditions and concepts, but in the end Gender equal participation was achieved.

Traditionally, married Tibetan women are usually responsible for cooking, cleaning, milking cows, churning butter and collecting yak dung for fuel. 40-year-old Tashi Wangmo (transliteration) has been herding cattle, collecting and selling medicinal herbs, and doing various odd jobs, but this did not bring much income. So when the opportunity came up for her to receive new training and earn a daily wage on restoration projects, she jumped at the chance.

She told reporters: “This allows many of us (women) to escape the constraints of family, expand our skills and find new opportunities. Otherwise, our lives will be stagnant, confined to corners and without prospects.

 Another 42-year-old female monument restorer, Dolma Tsering (transliteration), explained that the purpose of participating in temple restoration is not just to learn art or improve painting skills. She also believes that by participating in temple restoration work, she can grow personally spiritually, gain merit, and promote the spread of Tibetan Buddhism through her work.

Dolma Tsering said: “Once you compare the faded, lost silhouette of the deity’s image with the revitalized restored image, you realize that everyone’s efforts are incredible. The restoration work has enhanced the cultural value of Lomanthang. And As women, we have a role to play in this too.”

climate change

However, local communities still face challenges under the impact of climate change. The Himalayas in particular are particularly vulnerable to threats from warming and climate impacts. When the rains come, they come in torrential downpours, but long periods of drought are not uncommon.

In 2023, heavy rains fell in Mustang and many small rivers and streams overflowed, causing widespread flooding damage to nearby villages.

Local citizen Tashi Gurung (transliteration) said that the rapid expansion of transportation in the area and the construction of roads that are convenient for the outside world have also contributed to the rapid decline in the population of the village, because many Lhoba people have moved to the city in search of economic opportunities.

Tashi Gurung is a prime example of a farmer turned restoration expert who chose to stay in the area. He now owns an art gallery in Lomanthang, although he was not exposed to Tibetan Buddhist art as a child.

His art gallery displays an extraordinary collection of thangka paintings depicting the Buddha, his teachings, and various deities such as Bodhisattvas. His art sales not only supported himself, but also enabled him to send his children to school.

Looking back on his decision to stay, Tashi Gurung admits that the temple had a profound impact on his life. “Without the temple, I would have been like my friends who left Mustang in search of better opportunities overseas,” he said.